| With most gemstones set in jewelry whether it be a | | | | order for the beauty of it to materialize. The light |
| ring, pendant, earrings or other you have a choice as | | | | reflects and refracts from different parts of the |
| to how the stone will be set in the piece. There are | | | | stone and bounces back to your eye and that is how |
| several ways to hold a stone in place but the two | | | | you as the viewer see the glory of it. So the more |
| most commonly used are claw set, called prong set | | | | light that can get in and out of that stone the better. |
| in the USA, and bezel set. Claw set is where usually | | | | That is why you will see small holes underneath the |
| three or more pieces of metal stick out from the | | | | gemstones in your ring or other piece of jewellery. |
| piece and bend over the stone slightly and hold it in | | | | The purpose of claws is simply to hold the stone in |
| place. Bezel set is where the metal goes all the way | | | | the piece so only enough claws are used so that the |
| around the stone. | | | | stone is held firmly in place. There are many shapes |
| Let's look at bezel settings first and get an | | | | and types of cuts of stones. You may have heard |
| understanding of why they are used. Bezel setting | | | | about marquise, emerald, brilliant, square and now |
| can be used for any type of stone but it suits some | | | | cabochon cuts. Each one may use a different looking |
| more than others. | | | | and different shaped claw. Some cuts have points on |
| Firstly, there are two type of cutting of a stone | | | | the end of the gemstone so a claw which wraps |
| which is important to understand: facet cutting, | | | | around the point might be used, or two claws might |
| where you see all those different angles on the | | | | be used with one on each side of the point. |
| stone such as in a diamond and the other is | | | | The disadvantages of claw setting is that only a very |
| cabochon cutting, where the stone is a shiny looking | | | | small piece of metal is in contact with the gemstone |
| dome. You see cabochons, which is a mediaeval | | | | and this can get easily damaged. Some claws get |
| French word for hat, in nearly all opal jewellery. | | | | torn completely off the piece in an accidental bump. |
| Cabochons were used in jewellery before faceting | | | | Sitting in front of me as I write are three rings |
| was thought of. So some of the antique gems in | | | | customers have left for repairs. They have stones |
| English crowns from earlier kings and queens have | | | | missing, and valuable rubies and sapphires at that, and |
| rubies, emeralds and other gemstones cut into | | | | the claws are completely missing or bent out of |
| cabochons where today they would be facet cut. | | | | shape and I would bet that the owners do not even |
| Opals are soft stones and I like to use bezel setting | | | | realize that the claws are missing and that is why she |
| for opals because that metal surrounding the gem | | | | has lost the stones. |
| gives a soft stone a little more protection from | | | | As a ring gets older it wears and the claws get |
| knocks and bumps. Also the metal enhances the | | | | brushed against desks, tables, chairs, cars and |
| piece whereas I personally do not feel that claws | | | | everything else. Over time the claws wear so thin |
| have any attraction or beauty of their own. The | | | | that they can simply break off. So they need to be |
| same applies for other harder stones but that added | | | | re-tipped or replaced. |
| protection may not be necessary. Bezels never get | | | | Both claw and bezel setting have their place and one |
| torn off the piece like claws do and they never | | | | or the other will be the better method for setting a |
| actually push into the stone in a bad knock and chip | | | | stone depending on the type of stone, the type of |
| the stone but claws do. That's why I prefer them. | | | | setting and the wish of the wearer. But get a |
| Bezel setting costs a little more as there is more | | | | jeweller to check you rings every year and let him |
| labour involved and there is more metal in the piece | | | | polish them professionally. At some stage, he might |
| but overall it is worth it. | | | | inform you that your diamond or emerald is loose and |
| Now let's look a claw or prong settings. The greatest | | | | needs tightening or the claw needs attention. Let him |
| asset of claw setting is that there is very little metal | | | | do it as it will be cheaper than replacing the stone if it |
| holding the stone in place so you can see much more | | | | falls out. Think of your jewellery as needing |
| of the actual stone. A diamond and any faceted | | | | professional servicing from time to time just like your |
| stone requires light to pass through the stone in | | | | car does. |