| With most gemstones set in jewelry whether it | | | | The light reflects and refracts from |
| be a ring, pendant, earrings or other you | | | | different parts of the stone and bounces back |
| have a choice as to how the stone will be set | | | | to your eye and that is how you as the viewer |
| in the piece. There are several ways to hold | | | | see the glory of it. So the more light that |
| a stone in place but the two most commonly | | | | can get in and out of that stone the better. |
| used are claw set, called prong set in the | | | | That is why you will see small holes |
| USA, and bezel set. Claw set is where | | | | underneath the gemstones in your ring or |
| usually three or more pieces of metal stick | | | | other piece of jewellery. |
| out from the piece and bend over the stone | | | | |
| slightly and hold it in place. Bezel set is | | | | The purpose of claws is simply to hold the |
| where the metal goes all the way around the | | | | stone in the piece so only enough claws are |
| stone. | | | | used so that the stone is held firmly in |
| | | | place. There are many shapes and types of |
| Let's look at bezel settings first and get an | | | | cuts of stones. You may have heard about |
| understanding of why they are used. Bezel | | | | marquise, emerald, brilliant, square and now |
| setting can be used for any type of stone but | | | | cabochon cuts. Each one may use a different |
| it suits some more than others. | | | | looking and different shaped claw. Some cuts |
| | | | have points on the end of the gemstone so a |
| Firstly, there are two type of cutting of a | | | | claw which wraps around the point might be |
| stone which is important to understand: facet | | | | used, or two claws might be used with one on |
| cutting, where you see all those different | | | | each side of the point. |
| angles on the stone such as in a diamond and | | | | |
| the other is cabochon cutting, where the | | | | The disadvantages of claw setting is that |
| stone is a shiny looking dome. You see | | | | only a very small piece of metal is in |
| cabochons, which is a mediaeval French word | | | | contact with the gemstone and this can get |
| for hat, in nearly all opal jewellery. | | | | easily damaged. Some claws get torn |
| Cabochons were used in jewellery before | | | | completely off the piece in an accidental |
| faceting was thought of. So some of the | | | | bump. Sitting in front of me as I write are |
| antique gems in English crowns from earlier | | | | three rings customers have left for repairs. |
| kings and queens have rubies, emeralds and | | | | They have stones missing, and valuable rubies |
| other gemstones cut into cabochons where | | | | and sapphires at that, and the claws are |
| today they would be facet cut. | | | | completely missing or bent out of shape and I |
| | | | would bet that the owners do not even realize |
| Opals are soft stones and I like to use bezel | | | | that the claws are missing and that is why |
| setting for opals because that metal | | | | she has lost the stones. |
| surrounding the gem gives a soft stone a | | | | |
| little more protection from knocks and bumps. | | | | As a ring gets older it wears and the claws |
| Also the metal enhances the piece whereas I | | | | get brushed against desks, tables, chairs, |
| personally do not feel that claws have any | | | | cars and everything else. Over time the |
| attraction or beauty of their own. The same | | | | claws wear so thin that they can simply break |
| applies for other harder stones but that | | | | off. So they need to be re-tipped or |
| added protection may not be necessary. | | | | replaced. |
| Bezels never get torn off the piece like | | | | |
| claws do and they never actually push into | | | | Both claw and bezel setting have their place |
| the stone in a bad knock and chip the stone | | | | and one or the other will be the better |
| but claws do. That's why I prefer them. | | | | method for setting a stone depending on the |
| Bezel setting costs a little more as there is | | | | type of stone, the type of setting and the |
| more labour involved and there is more metal | | | | wish of the wearer. But get a jeweller to |
| in the piece but overall it is worth it. | | | | check you rings every year and let him polish |
| | | | them professionally. At some stage, he might |
| Now let's look a claw or prong settings. The | | | | inform you that your diamond or emerald is |
| greatest asset of claw setting is that there | | | | loose and needs tightening or the claw needs |
| is very little metal holding the stone in | | | | attention. Let him do it as it will be |
| place so you can see much more of the actual | | | | cheaper than replacing the stone if it falls |
| stone. A diamond and any faceted stone | | | | out. Think of your jewellery as needing |
| requires light to pass through the stone in | | | | professional servicing from time to time just |
| order for the beauty of it to materialize. | | | | like your car does. |